Uniqlo U - Too Much of a Good Thing?

Former Hermes designer Christophe Lemaire first teamed up with the fast fashion giants back in Autumn/Winter 2016 and has since run seasonal collections for the Uniqlo U line. Lemaire has helped Uniqlo to no end when it comes to connecting with the fashion zeitgeist of the late 2010s and early 20s, however, this reign of supremacy over the rest of the fast-fashion market is showing signs that the end is nigh.

A highlight of this season’s offering - a simple cardigan in Royal Blue

Despite Uniqlo’s failings when it comes to certain aspects of sustainability and overcrowded retail environments, you cannot knock their consistently excellent basics, which Lemaire has undoubtedly improved (there are some criticisms, which I’ll get into later). Before the conception of the ‘U’ line and their previous work with Lemaire, Uniqlo was in something of a liminal space. Clothes were well-made and provided bang for your buck, yes, but they were stuck in a rut — their silhouettes were distinctly unfashionable, which, for a fashion brand, is not ideal. It is a testament to Uniqlo for having the metaphorical bollocks to chase down or accept a pitch from Lemaire during their collaborations before U, and bringing Lemaire in full-time is a move that has paid dividends in the long run, yet may be providing diminishing marginal returns.

Now, U is not exactly reinventing the wheel, and one might be quick to point out easy weaknesses in the collection: the limited colour palette that has remained almost identical since the line’s conception; similar— if not identical— pieces each season; and stores that seem unwilling to stock the whole collection at once. But when Lemaire gets it right, there is nothing better. Take, for example, the corduroy suit from AW19. I was lucky enough to secure one of these on release day— they shifted very quickly— and I have worn an element of it almost daily in the months since purchase. AW19 was an exceptionally good collection and is up there with the best iterations of the Uniqlo U line. Their suits remain best in class for the under $200 market, but the issues lie elsewhere.

Of course, not every item in a 50-75 piece collection spanning across both menswear and womenswear will be to your taste, and this is especially true for me with SS20. But despite these tired designs and only minor, often unnecessary, changes to pieces from years gone by, the collaboration remains stylish and affordable which, in today’s market, is something to applaud.

Perhaps my view of this season’s offerings was tampered by Uniqlo’s awful in-store presentation, where the entire collection was dumped on a singular table by the tills, unfolded, as if the clothes themselves were crying out for mercy to weary shoppers. I wanted to like this collection, hell, I wax lyrically about everything else the man touches. But for the first time in his creative partnership with the Japanese giants, it felt tired, played-out, run of the mill, and— above all else— boring. Sure, the hyped pieces still sold. But it was clear to see there were far fewer hyped pieces than in previous collections. Take the long-sleeve knitted Polo neck. Lookbook pictures and online photos make this product look like a well made, affordable alternative to, say, John Smedley or Sunspel. In person, that opinion evaporates upon touching the material. Paper-thin, fits like a bin bag, and, most importantly, did not feel as if it were built to survive more than 5 minutes after leaving the store.

So, after 4 years of success, Lemaire has finally sacrificed his Uniqlo U line like a lamb to the slaughter at the altar of the fast-fashion gods. Maybe that was always the aim. The collaboration may carry his name, but no longer any real meaning (Sidebar— JW Anderson is guilty of this too. After all, other than their first collection’s interesting outerwear, simply slapping vibrant colours together on an existing line of Uniqlo products left us with something more reminiscent of a toddler in art class than a truly unique collection.) If U continues to go downhill, save your money and shop at COS.

Christophe - if you’re reading this, it’s not too late. Prove me wrong this Autumn.