“A Girl Should Be Two Things…
…Classy & Fabulous”
— Coco Chanel
Coming from the decadence of the Edwardian era and the dominance of fashion by the likes of Paul Poiret and his opulent orientalism, fashion needed a change. Every thesis has an antithesis and Coco Chanel, having the “head of a young boy who was going to cause all hell to break loose and pull out dresses, hairstyles, jewelry and sweaters from her magician’s hat,” as described by Poiret, was just that. With the gradually increasing recognition of women as legitimate members of society, Chanel created the perfect uniform for this movement: jersey knits and tweeds, materials traditionally reserved for men, subdued two pieces which were both comfortable and versatile, and the iconic little black dress. Vogue wrote of the house, “Chanel’s silhouette staying close to the lines of the uncorseted figure begins to make the skirts of Lanvin look old fashion and Poiret too theatrical.”
Take, for example, the classic two-piece. This simple skirt and jacket is perhaps the most iconic piece of the Chanel wardrobe. Introduced in the mid-1920’s using tweed, a fabric reserved at the time for men’s sportswear, the Chanel suit, though feminine, did introduce an element of androgyny to the previously corset-bound tyranny of women’s fashion. Men could get away with wearing the same suit for 90% of occasions, but women were expected to have dresses and gowns for at least three different times of day. The Chanel suit represented a change — a beautiful ensemble that could be worn all day, as well as to a formal dinner. This universal functionality of the tweed two-piece would be evidenced by later skirt-suit champions, Jackie Kennedy and Princess Diana.
Nearly one hundred years later— ignoring some creeping-upward of the hemline and other basic experimentation— the suit remains largely unchanged. As a garment, I adore the Chanel suit. Something about the design gives a feel of beautifully simplistic, yet scrupulous chic. Chloë Sevigny wore one, so of course I’m a fan. Philosophically, the garment holds an even greater power. Beyond its heritage accompanying the rise of female empowerment, it just echoes of the perfect clothing. Modern fashion, more than ever, exists inseparably between trends and the need to stand out. I think the Chanel stands out in its simplicity. Paired with a blouse, it’s formal; with a fishnet top, it’s casual. It smacks of the well-worn #menswear mantra “FROM THE BOARDROOM TO THE BAR,” a concept which has become cliché, but for good reason - its importance to the modern professional.
Influencers and the high-speed trends of modern fashion have persuaded us that, much like the Edwardian woman, we must have a different outfit curated for each occasion. But in a time when it is becoming more and more obvious that we are simply buying too much shit, the staying power of Chanel’s tweed two-piece reminds us of the value of finding the one outfit for all occasions. After all, “Simplicity is the keynote of all true elegance.” — Coco Chanel
